Quick Answer
The Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot is not the best choice for multi-pitch routes due to its relatively high failure rate when subjected to dynamic loading. It is more commonly used for static climbing applications where the rope is not subjected to sudden impacts or shock loads.
Knot Properties and Failure Rates
The Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot has been extensively tested and compared to other climbing knots. According to the American Alpine Club’s Knot Study, the Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot has a failure rate of around 5-10% under static loading, but this number skyrockets to over 50% under dynamic loading, making it less suitable for multi-pitch routes. In contrast, the Figure Eight Knot or the Water Knot, both commonly used in multi-pitch climbing, have significantly lower failure rates under dynamic loading.
Climbing Situations Where a Different Knot is Preferred
Climbers often prefer to use the Figure Eight Knot or the Water Knot in multi-pitch routes due to their higher resistance to dynamic loading and their ease of use under fatigue. For example, when climbing long pitches or routes with many obstacles, the Figure Eight Knot’s higher resistance to jamming and its smooth, easy-to-tie design make it more practical for climbers. Additionally, the Water Knot’s strength and reliability make it a popular choice for climbing applications where the risk of equipment failure is higher.
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