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Is A Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot Good For Multi-Pitch Climbing?

April 5, 2026

Quick Answer

The figure eight follow-through knot is not ideal for multi-pitch climbing due to its tendency to jam and fail under heavy loads, particularly when the rope is subjected to repeated stress and abrasion.

Choosing the Right Knot for Multi-Pitch Climbing

In multi-pitch climbing, the reliability and security of the knot are paramount. The figure eight follow-through knot, although commonly used in single-pitch climbing, is not the best choice for multi-pitch climbing due to its potential to jam and fail. A more suitable knot for multi-pitch climbing is the figure eight loop, which distributes the load more evenly and is less prone to jamming.

The Risks of Using the Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot

When subjected to heavy loads and repeated stress, the figure eight follow-through knot can jam and fail, resulting in a potentially disastrous outcome. This is particularly concerning in multi-pitch climbing, where the consequences of a failed knot can be severe. In contrast, the figure eight loop is designed to withstand heavy loads and repeated stress, making it a safer choice for multi-pitch climbing.

Best Practices for Knots in Multi-Pitch Climbing

To ensure safety in multi-pitch climbing, it is essential to use the correct knot for the task at hand. When climbing multi-pitch routes, use the figure eight loop or another reliable knot that can withstand heavy loads and repeated stress. Always check the knot before making a move, and consider having a second climber check it as well. Remember to keep the knot clean and free of debris to prevent jamming.

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